As a beekeeper, there will come a time when you need to remove a queen and replace her with a new one. Whether your hive is struggling with poor brood production, aggressive behavior, or other issues, requeening is often the solution. Replacing a weak or failing queen ensures that the colony can thrive, and it’s a skill that every beekeeper should master during their beekeeping journey.
The queen bee is the heart of the hive. She’s the only fertile female, responsible for laying all the eggs that populate the colony. A healthy queen mates with drones, and once mated, she’ll spend her life laying eggs, helping the colony grow. Worker bees are highly protective of their queen, feeding her royal jelly during her development to ensure she can lay eggs. When a hive’s queen is no longer performing well, it’s time to requeen.
Requeening isn’t as simple as just swapping out queens. It’s an art, influenced by factors like weather, nectar flow, bee breed, and colony temperament. Success depends on careful timing and technique, but when done right, requeening can invigorate your hive, restoring its strength and productivity.
What Is Requeening?
Requeening is the process of replacing an old, failing, or poorly performing queen bee with a new one. This is a common practice among beekeepers to ensure the hive remains healthy, productive, and well-regulated. A strong, healthy queen is essential for maintaining colony vitality, as she is the sole fertile female responsible for egg-laying and brood production. When the current queen’s performance declines or her temperament negatively affects the colony, requeening becomes necessary to ensure the hive continues to thrive.
What Happens To A Hive With No Queen?
A queenless hive faces serious challenges. Without a queen, the colony can no longer produce new worker bees, which means that over time, the colony will slowly dwindle in numbers. The worker bees may attempt to resolve the issue by creating a new queen from existing larvae. They do this by selecting younger, healthy larvae and feeding them royal jelly, which triggers the development of ovaries and the transformation into a queen.
However, this process isn’t always successful. The new queen may not be viable or may fail to mate properly, leading to further instability within the hive. If the hive remains queenless for too long, it can lead to the colony’s collapse. In some cases, the colony might decide to leave in search of a new queen, initiating a process called “absconding,” where the entire colony abandons the hive.
For these reasons, if you notice your hive is queenless, it’s critical to act quickly to requeen the hive before the colony becomes too weak to recover.
What Are Reasons For Requeening A Hive?
There are several reasons why a beekeeper might need to requeen a hive. Below are the most common scenarios:
1. The Queen is Dead
If you find that the queen is dead or missing, the hive will struggle to produce eggs and larvae, which can jeopardize the colony’s survival. Without a queen, the bees will attempt to raise a new one, but this process may take too long or fail. If you notice a lack of new eggs or larvae during your hive inspections, it’s time to requeen the hive.
2. The Queen is Old
Queen bees live for 3 to 5 years, but their egg-laying ability typically declines after 2-3 years. Many beekeepers choose to requeen every 1 to 2 years to ensure a healthy, productive colony. Requeening in late summer or early fall is a good practice because it gives the new queen time to establish herself before the next spring season.
3. Poor Queen Performance
Sometimes, even a young queen may not perform to expectations. If she is laying fewer eggs than needed, or the brood pattern is spotty, it may be time to replace her to ensure a more productive hive.
4. The Hive’s Temperament is Aggressive
A hive’s temperament is often a direct reflection of its queen. If your bees are becoming overly aggressive or territorial, replacing the queen may help calm the colony. This is especially true if the current queen is naturally more defensive or irritable.
5. Other Hive Issues
Requeening can also help address other colony issues, such as poor brood production or a general decline in hive health. However, it’s important to carefully assess the situation and consult with experienced beekeepers before deciding to requeen, as it may not always resolve the issue at hand.
What Are The Signs Of A Weak Hive?
Assessing the strength of your hive is crucial for every beekeeper. A weak hive may require attention, such as requeening or other interventions, to ensure its survival and productivity. Here are some key signs that your hive may be weak:
Population
A simple way to assess the strength of your hive is by checking its population. When you open the hive, a healthy, strong colony will show plenty of activity. Here’s what to look for:
Bees Between Frames: In a strong hive, you should see a dense cluster of bees between the frames, often hanging from the top bars. The bees will be actively moving, and there will be little to no space between them.
Bees in the Honey Supers: Check the honey supers for activity. In a strong hive, the frames in the honey supers should be nearly full, with capped honey cells. A well-established colony will store enough honey to sustain the hive through lean periods.
No Pests or Mold: A strong colony is also an active one that keeps its hive clean. Look for signs of pests like wax moths or small hive beetles. These can weaken the hive, especially if the population is insufficient to defend the brood nest. The presence of pests or mold can indicate a decline in colony health.
By performing this simple check, you can get a good idea of the hive’s population strength and whether it needs attention, such as additional space or requeening.
Honey
While abundant honey production is a good sign, it doesn’t always indicate a strong hive. A healthy, strong colony will naturally produce a surplus of honey, especially during peak nectar flow. However, just producing honey alone doesn’t guarantee strength.
To assess the strength of your hive, consider the following:
Honey Storage vs. Colony Size: A strong colony will not only produce honey but also consume it efficiently and maintain a balanced population. If your hive has a lot of honey but the population seems small or weak, there may be other issues at play, such as a failing queen or disease.
Capped Honey: In a strong, healthy hive, you should see honey stores that are fully capped in the frames. If the honey is uncapped or partially filled, it may indicate insufficient foraging or a problem with the hive’s ability to process nectar.
In short, while honey production is an important indicator, it should be considered alongside other factors like population size, brood pattern, and overall hive activity.
Combs
The condition of the combs and the presence of stored pollen are key indicators of hive strength.
Comb Condition: A strong hive will work hard to protect its combs from predators like moths and beetles. If you notice damaged or destroyed combs, it may be a sign that the hive is struggling to defend itself, often due to a weak population or lack of resources. Weak hives are more susceptible to such pests, which can further weaken the colony.
Pollen Storage: Pollen is a vital food source for the colony, especially during the brood-rearing season. A strong, healthy hive will store plenty of pollen near the entrance, as they have the energy and workforce to forage effectively. If you notice little to no pollen in the hive, it could indicate that the colony is not foraging well or that the queen is failing to stimulate proper brood rearing.
Brood Pattern
The brood pattern is one of the most reliable indicators of the health and strength of a hive. A strong, healthy colony will maintain a solid, consistent brood pattern.
Capped Brood Cells: In a thriving hive, most of the brood cells should be capped. This indicates that the larvae have developed properly and are ready to pupate. A well-formed brood pattern typically consists of evenly spaced, capped cells throughout the brood chamber.
Uncapped or Abnormal Cells: If you notice a lot of uncapped cells or cells that are empty, it could be a sign of brood issues. Uncapped brood often means that the larvae were unhealthy or that the worker bees removed them due to disease or poor development. This can be an early sign of queen failure, poor egg laying, or disease in the hive.
Solid vs. Spotty Brood Pattern: A strong hive will have a solid brood pattern, meaning the capped brood fills most of the frame in a regular, dense pattern. A weak hive may exhibit a spotty or irregular brood pattern, with gaps where no brood is present. This can indicate a queen problem, poor egg fertilization, or a lack of adequate worker bee population to care for the brood.
When you inspect the brood, take the time to carefully examine the larvae. Healthy larvae should appear creamy whiteand should be in a “C” shape as they rest in the cells. This is a sign that they are developing properly and are in the correct stage of growth before pupating.
Healthy Larvae: Look for clean, white larvae that fit neatly into their cells. A healthy, well-fed larvae will typically be curved in a “C” shape, which is a sign that they are maturing correctly.
Signs of Brood Disease: If you observe any discoloration, such as yellow, brown, or black larvae, it could indicate the presence of brood diseases, such as American Foulbrood (AFB) or European Foulbrood (EFB). Additionally, misshapen or disfigured larvae, or larvae that are shrinking back into their cells, are clear indicators that something is wrong. These issues could suggest a poor quality queen or an infection within the hive.
When Is The Best Time To Requeen A Hive?
The ideal time to requeen a hive is early fall, with September being the most popular month among beekeepers. This timing is optimal because it allows the new queen time to acclimate to her colony before the colder winter months. If requeened early enough, the new queen may even begin laying healthy brood before the onset of winter. This is particularly beneficial, as the winter bees will be well-nourished and have a longer lifespan due to the decreased activity during the dormant season.
Benefits of Requeening in Early Fall:
- Settling In Before Winter: Requeening in early fall gives the new queen a chance to establish herself, and the colony can adjust to her presence.
- Healthy Winter Bees: If the queen lays eggs before winter, the brood that emerges will be the winter bees, which tend to live longer and are less stressed due to their reduced activity in the colder months.
Considerations When Requeening in September: One potential drawback of requeening in September is the lower nectar availability, which can reduce the bees’ ability to accept and care for a new queen. Beekeepers typically see better acceptance rates when there is a strong nectar flow, as bees are more active and receptive during these times. If your region experiences a nectar dearth in late summer or fall, you may want to wait or provide supplemental feeding to ensure the hive’s acceptance of the new queen.
Ultimately, the best time to requeen will depend on the specific needs of your hive. If you’re satisfied with the hive’s current performance and don’t feel a sense of urgency, waiting until September is a great option. However, if you notice signs of queen failure or a weak hive, don’t hesitate to requeen sooner rather than later. Addressing issues early ensures that the colony can recover and thrive.
How Often Do I Need To Requeen?
The frequency of requeening largely depends on your goals as a beekeeper and the specific needs of your hive. Many commercial beekeepers requeen every year to ensure optimal productivity and prevent any decline in honey production. This practice helps maintain a healthy, high-performing colony with a young, vigorous queen.
However, as a new beekeeper, it’s not always necessary to requeen on a regular schedule. In fact, if your hive is thriving and the queen is performing well, there’s no immediate need to replace her. If the queen is still laying eggs properly, and the colony is healthy and productive, requeening is not required.
How Do I Requeen A Hive?
Requeening a hive requires patience and care to ensure the new queen is accepted by the colony. Simply introducing a new queen into the hive without any preparation can result in rejection or even death of the queen, as the colony may perceive her as an intruder. To successfully requeen, it’s crucial to follow a method that allows the bees time to adjust to the new queen and gradually accept her.
Here are the key steps to safely and effectively requeen your hive:
1. Get a New Queen Bee
Before requeening, you’ll need to acquire a new queen bee. There are two primary ways to obtain one: raising your own queen or purchasing one from a reputable source.
Raise a Queen
If you have experience and time, you can raise your own queen from existing larvae. This involves selecting healthy larvae and allowing your bees to feed them royal jelly to develop into queens. This process can take several weeks but gives you more control over the quality and temperament of the queen. However, it requires more attention and expertise. There is a great article from PerfectBee about how to raise your own queens.
Purchase a Queen
For a quicker and more reliable option, you can purchase a queen from a trusted supplier. Queens are typically sold in small cages that include the queen along with a few worker bees to protect her. Make sure to buy from a reputable breeder to ensure the queen is healthy, disease-free, and of good genetic stock. See my post for more information on how to transport bees in your car.
When your queen arrives, she will be in a cage similar to the image below.
The queen may arrive with attendant bees. These worker bees, usually between 7-12 days old, are tasked with caring for the queen by feeding and grooming her. If your queen comes with attendant bees, you can safely open the cage and allow them to fly out into the hive once the queen is securely placed.
Queen cages typically have a candy plug or cork at one end. This plug allows the worker bees in the hive to gradually eat through it and release the queen over a period of a few days. The slow release helps ensure the colony accepts the new queen, as the bees will gradually become accustomed to her scent.
When placing the queen cage into the hive, it’s important to ensure that the candy plug is positioned at the bottom of the cage. This way, if the hive is too warm and the candy begins to melt, it won’t drip onto the queen. Excess moisture from melted candy can harm the queen, so it’s crucial to monitor the temperature of the hive.
2. Remove the Old Queen
Once the new queen is ready to be introduced, you must remove the old queen from the hive. It’s crucial to remove her, as the presence of the old queen can cause the colony to reject the new one. If you’re unsure how to identify the queen, refer to the section below in this article for tips.
Removing the old queen typically means ending her life, which is an unfortunate but necessary part of the requeening process. To do this quickly and humanely, grasp the queen gently by the wings and use your fingers to pinch her head. Be sure to dispose of the old queen properly. Some beekeepers choose to leave her body on the frames, which can help signal to the colony that the old queen is gone and facilitate the acceptance of the new queen.
That said, you still have a couple of options for the old queen. Some beekeepers prefer to keep her alive just in case the new queen is rejected, allowing for a backup option. If you plan to use the old queen for a hive split or if you think someone else could use her, consider reaching out to your local beekeeping community to sell or gift her to another beekeeper.
If you choose to keep the old queen, make sure she remains well-fed and warm. Place her in a cage, and keep her in a safe environment. Ideally, she should be transferred to another hive within a couple of days, as prolonged isolation or stress can harm her health.
3. Install the New Queen
After removing the old queen, wait 24 hours before introducing the new queen to the hive. This gives the colony time to adjust and increases the likelihood that the bees will accept the new queen. This waiting period also helps ensure that the pheromone from the old queen has dissipated, allowing the new queen’s scent to be more readily accepted.
Some beekeepers use smoke or other methods to mask the queen’s scent as she is introduced. This can help with acceptance because it allows the bees to gradually acclimate to her pheromones rather than having the new queen’s scent be immediately overwhelming. If you prefer not to use a smoker, check out my post on how to calm bees without smoke for alternative methods.
Now, place the queen—still in her cage—into a comb inside the hive. The comb should not contain any brood, and it’s ideal to place the queen’s cage in the center of the brood box. This ensures that any fresh brood that hatches will be raised with her scent, helping them recognize her as their queen. Once the cage is in place, carefully arrange the frames around it, making sure there’s enough space for the bees to move around her.
Keep the candy plug in the cage for a couple of days. This gradual release allows the worker bees to eat through the candy, slowly introducing the queen to the hive’s population. If the bees do not accept her, they will likely kill her, so this controlled introduction process is crucial to the success of the requeening.
4. Don’t Visit the Hive For One Week
After introducing the new queen, avoid opening or disturbing the hive for at least one week. This critical period allows the colony to adjust to their new queen without disruption. If you make frequent visits or disturb the hive too soon, the bees may perceive the new queen as the cause of the stress and reject her. It’s essential to give them the time and space to accept her as the new leader of the hive. There is one exception to this rule: if you’ve used a non-candy plug in the queen cage (like a cork or plastic plug), you will need to return to the hive after 2-3 days to remove the plug. This allows the worker bees to release the queen themselves. Once that’s done, you can leave the hive undisturbed for the remainder of the week to give the bees time to adjust.
There is one exception to this rule: if you’ve used a non-candy plug in the queen cage (like a cork or plastic plug), you will need to return to the hive after 2-3 days to remove the plug. This allows the worker bees to release the queen themselves. Once that’s done, you can leave the hive undisturbed for the remainder of the week to give the bees time to adjust.
5. Inspect the Hive
After about a week, perform a standard hive inspection to evaluate the progress of the new queen. By this point, the worker bees should have eaten through the candy plug and released the queen into the hive. Your primary goal during this inspection is to determine whether the bees have accepted or rejected the new queen.
Start by looking for the queen. Sometimes, she may get stuck in the queen cage, so be sure to check that she is free. If you can’t find her, check the brood chamber for new eggs. Finding eggs is a good sign that the bees have accepted their new queen and she is actively laying. If you see eggs, congratulations—your requeening process has been successful!
If you don’t see the queen or any new eggs, you may need to troubleshoot. This could indicate that the colony has rejected the new queen. In this case, it’s helpful to reach out to experienced beekeepers or consult beekeeping forums for advice. If the queen is truly absent or the colony is uncooperative, you will need to order a new queen and repeat the requeening process.
6. Remove the Queen Cage
Once you’ve confirmed that the new queen is free, laying eggs, and has been accepted by the colony, you can remove the queen cage from the hive. It’s important to wait until you see eggs before removing the cage, as this confirms that the bees have fully accepted her and she’s beginning to do her job.
Consider saving the queen cage for future use, especially if you plan to split a hive. The cage can come in handy for safely transporting and introducing a new queen to a split colony, ensuring that the new hive adjusts well to its new queen.
What Do I Do If The Bees Try To Overthrow The New Queen?
If the bees try to overthrow the new queen, they may start building supersedure cells. These are emergency queen cells that worker bees create in an effort to replace the existing queen, usually because they’re dissatisfied with her or because of some perceived issue with her performance. Supersedure cells are typically vertical, larger than normal brood cells, and are often found in the center of the frame.
If you notice supersedure cells, don’t panic. This behavior can be a sign of the colony still adjusting to the new queen or that they are not fully satisfied with her. Here’s what you can do:
Inspect the Queen’s Activity: Check if the queen is laying eggs and if there’s a solid brood pattern. If she’s laying well and the brood looks healthy, the colony may be reacting out of instinct rather than a real issue with the queen.
Remove Supersedure Cells: If the queen is performing well and there is no obvious problem, you can remove the supersedure cells to prevent the bees from raising a new queen. Simply scrape them off the comb with a hive tool.
Consider Requeening Again: If the queen is not laying well or there are signs of disease or other issues in the hive, you may need to replace her again. Sometimes a second attempt at requeening is necessary.
Leave the Bees to Work It Out: If the supersedure cells are not actively being developed into a new queen, it may be worth leaving the hive alone for a bit longer. Sometimes, bees will raise a new queen in response to perceived problems, but they may eventually settle with the existing queen after a period of adjustment.
If you find that the bees are consistently trying to overthrow the queen, it could be a sign of deeper issues, such as poor queen pheromone production or genetics, in which case a more hands-on approach to requeening or replacing the colony may be needed.
How Do I Identify The Queen Bee In The Hive?
Finding the queen bee during hive inspections is an important skill for any beekeeper. Identifying her ensures you can manage the hive properly, avoid harming her by accident, and spot any potential issues with the colony’s health or productivity. While it may seem challenging at first, with practice, you’ll be able to identify her more easily.
Here are some tips to help you identify the queen bee in your hive:
Size and Shape
The queen bee is noticeably larger than the worker bees. She has a long, slender abdomen that is often much more extended than the worker bees, which gives her a unique, almost “elongated” look. This is one of the easiest ways to distinguish the queen from the workers.Movement
The queen moves differently than the workers. While the worker bees are constantly foraging or attending to the brood, the queen is typically moving slowly around the frames. She’s often seen walking deliberately over the comb, laying eggs. She will be more solitary compared to the busy worker bees around her.Color
While queens are generally darker in color compared to worker bees, the exact shade can vary depending on the breed. However, queens tend to have a more uniform and often darker color, particularly on the thorax and abdomen.Behavior
The queen is typically surrounded by worker bees that are attending to her—feeding, grooming, and caring for her. If you see a cluster of bees surrounding a single bee, the chances are high that it’s the queen. Look closely at the behavior of the surrounding bees—they will often move to clear a path for the queen to move.Egg Laying
The most definitive sign of a queen is that she is laying eggs. If you find her on a frame and notice a consistent pattern of eggs at the bottom of the brood cells, then that’s a strong indication that she’s the queen. Worker bees may be tending to these eggs, but the queen will typically lay her eggs in the bottom of the cells, neatly aligned.Location on the Frame
The queen is often found in the brood area of the hive, where she is laying eggs. She’ll generally stay near the center of the brood nest. While workers and drones move freely between the frames, the queen stays in one place longer. Look for her in the area with the most brood, and that’s likely where she will be found.Queen Cells
If you spot queen cells in the hive, there’s a chance that a new queen is in the process of emerging or being raised. However, if the hive is strong and there’s no indication of swarming, this can also signal that the current queen is failing or has been replaced. If you can see the queen, confirm if she’s active or laying before deciding on requeening.Use of a Marking Pen
If you are still having difficulty locating the queen, you might consider marking her. Many beekeepers do this by gently catching the queen and using a special non-toxic marker to place a dot on her thorax. This makes it easier to spot her during subsequent inspections.
Marking the Queen
Some beekeepers choose to mark their queen bees so they can easily identify her. Marking a queen helps you determine if the original queen has been replaced by the hive. It’s also easier to track the queen’s age and performance over time.
If you want to mark your queen, you can get queen marking pens and place a dot on her thorax. Plan to do this when a majority of the bees are out of the hive. Bees are most active in the late morning as they leave the hive to forage.
The International Queen Marking Color Code
The international color code system is a simple and effective way to track the age of your queen bee. Each color corresponds to a specific year, so you can easily determine the age of the queen without having to guess. Here’s the color code system:
- White: For queens introduced in years ending in 1 or 6.
- Yellow: For queens introduced in years ending in 2 or 7.
- Red: For queens introduced in years ending in 3 or 8.
- Green: For queens introduced in years ending in 4 or 9.
- Blue: For queens introduced in years ending in 5 or 0.
Since queen bees typically live between 3 to 5 years, this system helps you keep track of the queen’s age without having to remember when she was introduced. You can quickly see whether the queen is approaching the end of her productive life and plan for requeening if necessary.
Tips for Marking Your Queen
- Be Gentle: Handle the queen carefully, as she is delicate. Use a gentle touch to avoid injuring her when catching her or marking her.
- Use a Queen Catcher: If you’re unsure about catching the queen by hand, use a queen catcher, a small, bee-safe tool that traps the queen without harming her.
- Check Hive Temperament: Some colonies are more aggressive than others. Be mindful of the hive’s temperament when planning to mark your queen. If your hive is particularly aggressive, it may be a good idea to smoke them lightly to calm them down before opening the hive.
Identifying an Unmarked Queen Bee
Identifying an unmarked queen bee can be challenging, especially in a busy hive filled with thousands of worker bees. However, with a few key observations, you can successfully locate her. Here’s how to identify the queen without a mark:
1. Look in the Brood Nest
The queen is usually found in the brood nest, as this is where she is most active laying eggs. The brood nest is typically located in the center of the hive, often in the frames that are most populated with capped and uncapped brood. Start your inspection here.
2. Observe the Queen’s Size and Shape
The queen bee has several distinct physical characteristics that set her apart from the worker bees:
- Larger Size: The queen is noticeably larger than the worker bees. She has a longer, more elongated body, especially in the abdomen area, which is one of her most recognizable features.
- Pointed Abdomen: The queen’s abdomen is more tapered and pointed, unlike the rounder, shorter abdomen of the workers.
- Barbless Stinger: The queen has a barbless stinger, which allows her to sting multiple times without getting stuck, unlike the worker bees that can only sting once before dying. While the stinger may not be immediately visible, the absence of barb-like structures can be helpful when identifying her.
3. Check the Behavior of the Bees
Bees will often form a circle or cluster around the queen. Worker bees are highly protective of their queen and will typically surround her as she moves around the brood area. If you notice a dense cluster of bees, carefully look for a larger bee in the center. This is likely your queen.
You may also notice a distinct “movement pattern.” The queen moves at a slower, more deliberate pace compared to the worker bees, who are constantly foraging or cleaning. The queen tends to move along the comb, laying eggs in the cells, while workers will be darting about more quickly.
4. Look for Egg-Laying Behavior
When a queen is active, you can often observe her laying eggs in the cells. As she moves along the comb, she will stop and deposit eggs into individual cells. If you spot a bee laying eggs, it’s likely the queen. Worker bees typically do not lay eggs unless the hive is queenless, in which case they may lay unfertilized eggs, which develop into drones.
5. Don’t Rush—Take Your Time
Locating the queen in a busy hive can take time and patience. Move slowly and carefully as you inspect the frames, and try not to disturb the bees too much. Sometimes, it may take several minutes to spot her, especially if she’s surrounded by workers.
By using these tips, you’ll be able to reliably identify an unmarked queen. This skill is essential for managing your hive and ensuring your queen is healthy and active, which is crucial for the overall health of the colony.
Final Thoughts
Requeening a hive is an essential skill for every beekeeper. Whether due to an aging queen, a dead queen, poor egg-laying performance, or undesirable hive temperament, knowing when and how to replace a queen is crucial to maintaining a healthy, thriving colony. As a beekeeper, it’s important to recognize the signs of a weak hive—such as a decrease in population, insufficient honey production, or poor brood patterns—so you can take timely action.
When requeening, always remember that the new queen must be introduced slowly and carefully to the colony. If rushed, the bees may reject and even kill her. By following the proper steps and giving the colony time to accept her, you can ensure the long-term success of your hive. Properly managing the queen is one of the most important aspects of beekeeping and will help secure the health and productivity of your hive for seasons to come.
